If you’ve been bouldering for a while, you probably know the feeling. You’re stuck on a project and think: “If only I had slightly stronger fingers…”
Then you see them hanging there: hangboards. Those wooden or plastic blocks with holds so small you wonder how people stay on them at all. Hangboarding seems like the shortcut to better grip—and it is. But, it is also the fastest route to an injury if you don’t know what you’re doing.
This guide will help you prevent exactly that. No drama, just clear facts. Here is how to start safely.
Why Hangboard? (And why you shouldn’t start too early)
Hangboarding is strength training for your fingers, and that demands respect. You aren’t just using muscles; you are placing heavy loads on the tiny tendons in your fingers (the pulleys) and forearms.
Here lies the trap: muscles grow fast, but tendons are slow. No matter how strong you feel, tendons need an average of 6 to 12 months to adapt to the stress of “just” climbing. If you start hanging too early, you are asking for trouble.
The Check: Are you ready?
- 👉 Just started bouldering? Then your body isn’t ready for the intensity of a hangboard yet. Focus on your climbing technique first.
- 👉 Climbing regularly for 6+ months? Do you feel you recover well between sessions and have no finger pain or injuries? Then you can carefully begin.
The magic word is Load Management: how much stress can your fingers handle without crossing the line?
Step 1: Warm-up — Your Insurance Against Injury
This is the part most people skip, but it will help you progress the most. Cold tendons + hangboards = a recipe for injury.
A good warm-up wakes up your tendons, lubricates your joints, and puts your shoulders in a stable position.
The 5-Minute Routine
- Cardio (2–5 min): Walking, jogging, jumping jacks. Get your heart rate up and your body warm.
- Mobility: Rotate your arms, loosen up your shoulders, and mobilize your wrists.
- Scap-Pulls (Crucial!): Hang from a large hold (or pull-up bar). Actively pull your shoulder blades down and slightly back, without bending your arms. Movement comes purely from the shoulders. This protects you from nasty shoulder injuries.
- Light Dead Hangs: Hang for 5–8 seconds on large edges (jugs). Very relaxed, purely to put some tension on the tendons.
Tip: Your warm-up should feel like your body is “switching on,” not like you are already exhausted. (Check out our full Climbing Warm-up Guide for a detailed routine.)
Step 2: The Hang-ABC — Technique is Everything
Hangboarding isn’t just “hanging and waiting.” The way you hang determines your safety and your progress.
1. Active Hang vs. Passive Hang
- Passive Hang (Wrong): You hang completely in your joints, shoulders touching your ears. You dangle like a Christmas ornament on a tree. This is bad for your shoulders.
- Active Hang (Right): You actively pull your shoulder blades down and back. Not like a pull-up, but subtle. Your chest lifts slightly.
- For beginners, the active hang is the standard. It’s safer and builds more control.
2. The Three Most Important Grips
Which grip you choose makes a world of difference for the load on your fingers.
- Open Hand Grip (✅ Recommended): Your fingers hook onto the edge, remaining relatively straight. This is the safest, most ergonomic grip. Perfect for beginners.
- Half Crimp (⚠️ Caution): Your fingers are at a 90-degree angle. This is the grip you use most often while climbing. Strong, but heavier on your tendons.
- Full Crimp (⛔️ No-Go Zone): The famous “locked” fingers where the thumb crosses over the index finger. This is extremely stressful on the pulleys. Even pros use this sparingly. As a beginner, you absolutely do not need this.
(Not sure about the grip types? Read our guide on Types of Climbing Holds to learn the difference.)
Step 3: Your First Training Plan — Keep It Simple
In hangboarding, you don’t win medals for using the smallest edge or the heaviest set. It’s all about progression and consistency.
Here is a protocol that is simple, safe, and effective.
The Beginner Protocol
- Frequency: 2x per week (e.g., after your warm-up, before your climbing session).
- Duration: 10–15 minutes total.
The Set:
- Choose a large, comfortable hold (20mm or larger/deeper).
- Hang for 10 seconds in an Active Hang and Open Hand grip.
- Take 3 to 5 minutes rest.
- Repeat this 3 times.
That might seem like very little… until you try it. This schedule builds your tendons without wrecking them. Follow this for 4 to 6 weeks before you even think about going heavier.
Common Mistakes (That You Will Avoid)
❌ Starting too early: Your mind wants to, but your tendons disagree.
❌ Using holds that are too small: Big is good. You have nothing to prove.
❌ Not enough rest: Tendons recover slowly. Rest days are just as important as training days.
❌ Using a Full Crimp: Just don’t do it. Period.
❌ No warm-up: The difference between progression and months of rehab.
When Are You Ready for More?
If you do this consistently for a few weeks, remain injury-free, and notice that the 10 seconds feel easy, you can adjust one variable:
- Increase hang time to 12 seconds.
- Or add a 4th set.
- Or use a slightly smaller edge.
- Never change everything at once!
Conclusion: The 3 Golden Rules
- Patience: At least 6 -12 months of climbing experience before starting.
- Warm-up: Switch those shoulders and tendons “on.”
- Control: Consistency always beats intensity.
With this approach, you won’t just get stronger; you’ll become a more resilient, injury-free climber. And believe me: that impossible boulder you’re stuck on right now? You’ll be climbing that as a warm-up in a few months.
Good luck!
