Learning the different types of climbing holds like jugs, crimps, and slopers can transform frustration into progress, giving you the tools to tackle any route.
My First Encounter with the Wall
When I first walked into a climbing gym, I had no idea what I was doing. The brightly colored types of climbing holds on the walls looked like candy stuck to rock, but I couldn’t tell which ones were “easy” or how I was supposed to use them. The result? Slipping, fumbling, and let’s be honest a lot of falling.
But with time and practice, I learned to recognize and handle these mysterious holds. Each type taught me something new not just about climbing, but about patience, problem-solving, and persistence. So, if you’ve ever stared up at a route and felt overwhelmed, trust me you’re not alone. Let me take you through the world of climbing holds, one grip at a time.
Jugs: My First Love
What They Are:
Jugs are those big, friendly holds that feel like handles.
I’ll never forget the first time I grabbed a jug on the wall. It was a beginner route, but it gave me a huge boost of confidence. With my whole hand securely wrapped around it, I felt strong, capable, and—dare I say it—like a climber.
How to Approach Them:
- Relax your grip; jugs are forgiving.
- Use them as rest spots during harder climbs.
Looking back, jugs were a lifesaver when I was just starting out. They gave me space to pause, breathe, and plan my next move. this beginner’s guide to bouldering essentials is a great resource.
Crimps: A Love-Hate Relationship
What They Are:
Crimps are tiny holds where you can only fit your fingertips. They’re challenging, especially for heavier climbers. Overcoming them required targeted finger strength training and patience. (For climbers working with a heavier build, here are powerful tips tailored to your strengths.)
I’ll admit, my first crimp nearly defeated me. My fingers screamed in protest, and I thought, “This can’t be right!” Over time, though, I learned the secret: it’s all about technique.
How I Made Progress:
- I practiced half-crimp grips (keeping fingers slightly bent).
- Fingerboard training helped me build strength.
Even now, crimps challenge me. But they’ve taught me that progress isn’t always comfortable it’s about pushing through discomfort to find strength you didn’t know you had.
Slopers: The Great Equalizer
What They Are:
Slopers are rounded, slippery holds that rely on friction rather than grip.
When I first encountered a sloper, I laughed. How was I supposed to hold onto something with no edge? The answer, I discovered, was surprising: tension.
What Worked for Me:
- Keeping my hips close to the wall for balance.
- Using an open-hand grip with maximum contact.
Slopers taught me that climbing isn’t just about your hands it’s about your whole body. Staying calm, focused, and controlled is half the battle.
Pinches: A Test of Grip Strength
What They Are:
Pinches are holds you grab by squeezing with your thumb and fingers.
My first pinch hold felt impossible. My grip kept slipping, and my thumb felt useless. But instead of giving up, I started practicing specific exercises, like holding blocks and doing thumb presses. Slowly but surely, I improved.
Key Tips I Picked Up:
- Use your thumb actively, don’t let it “check out.”
- Engage your core and keep your feet steady.
Now, pinches are some of my favorite holds. There’s something satisfying about powering through a route that once felt unattainable.
Pockets: A Lesson in Precision
What They Are:
Pockets are small holes that fit one, two, or three fingers.
My first outdoor climb introduced me to pockets, and let’s just say I was not prepared. I jabbed my fingers into a tiny hole and felt an immediate twinge. That’s when I learned the golden rule: never overload one finger.
What Helped Me Improve:
- Using my middle and ring fingers for stability.
- Building finger strength gradually, no shortcuts!
Pockets demand precision and patience. They taught me to move deliberately and pay attention to how my body aligns with the wall.
Edges: The All-Rounder
What They Are:
Edges are flat or slightly angled ledges for your fingers.
Edges became my comfort zone early on. They’re versatile and show up everywhere, from gym routes to outdoor crags. At first, I relied heavily on my arms, but I quickly realized that smart footwork made all the difference.
Lessons I Learned:
- Use your feet to balance, not just your hands.
- Adjust your grip depending on the edge size, open hand for larger edges, crimp for smaller ones.
Edges remind me that climbing is a dance between precision and power.
Volumes: The Wildcards
What They Are:
Volumes are large, angular shapes that add variety to gym routes.
I’ll never forget my first encounter with a volume, it looked like a giant, awkward block glued to the wall. I tried to grip it like a jug, only to slide right off. Then it clicked: volumes are less about gripping and more about positioning.
What Worked for Me:
- Treating the volume like part of the wall.
- Using my feet, knees, and hips creatively.
Volumes taught me to think outside the box and embrace climbing’s playful side.
Footholds: The Silent Heroes
What They Are:
Tiny holds designed for your feet.
Early on, I was so focused on my hands that I ignored footholds entirely. Big mistake! Once I started paying attention to my feet, everything changed. Suddenly, routes felt more manageable because my legs were doing their fair share of the work.
How I Improved:
- Placing my toes precisely, not sloppily.
- Trusting my feet, even on the smallest holds.
Footholds may not get the spotlight, but they’re the foundation of good climbing.
Connecting the Dots: How I Train for Holds
Over time, I realized that climbing wasn’t just about showing up at the wall, it was about preparing off the wall, too. Here’s what helped me:
- Fingerboards: Perfect for strengthening crimps and edges.
- Pinch Blocks: Great for building pinch grip strength.
- Sloper Grips: Helped me master open-hand holds and body tension.
- Dynamic Drills: Simulated switching between holds on the wall.
Each training session brought me closer to mastering holds that once felt impossible.
FAQs About Climbing Holds
1. What’s the most challenging hold to learn?
For me, it was slopers. They’re unpredictable and demand total body control.
2. How do I avoid injuries on tough holds like crimps?
Warm up, progress slowly, and listen to your body, especially your fingers.
3. Can beginners try all types of holds?
Absolutely! Start with jugs and edges, but don’t shy away from experimenting.
Lessons from the Wall
Mastering climbing holds is about perseverance and strategy. Whether you’re starting with friendly jugs or tackling tricky crimps, the right gear, mindset, and safety practices make all the difference. For more advice on gear, climbing techniques, and safety, explore this complete bouldering guide and other helpful tips on Bergium.
If you’re just starting out, don’t be discouraged. Every climber has struggled with holds at some point. Embrace the process, celebrate small victories, and remember: the wall isn’t just a challenge it’s a teacher.
Now it’s your turn. What’s been your biggest challenge or triumph when it comes to climbing holds? Share your story below I’d love to hear it!
